Allison Visnaw
UCAS #1656098669
Key Inspirations
I draw inspiration from vintage fashion, particularly the 1950s era, promoting ultra femininity and elegance in the fabrications and silhouettes. Photo: Sears (1954)
Moschino always designs with joy with their color choices, prints, silhouettes, and embellishments. The Spring/Summer 22 collection combined 1950s silhouettes with nursery toys and symbols that inspires me to think creatively and uniquely. Photo: Moschino (2021)
Disney is a large inspiration as it has been a part of my life for a very long time and always sparks joy and happiness to so many people. Photo: Walt Disney Corporation (1928)
Ballet has played a large role in my life and as I aspire to work with the ballet in costuming, I have a deep appreciation for the art and strength the sport requires. Photo: Cecchetti (1914)
My mom (left) is a huge source of encouragement and motivation for me. She always supports me and has been the reason for my exposure to a lot of new techniques and applications. Photo: Marisa & Allison taken by Allison Visnaw
Process & Sketchbook
Maestosa Metamorfosi is a collection inspired by the Swallowtail and Monarch butterfly and the stages of life from the ovum stage to the butterfly. The following images relate directly to this concept and the final collection designs.
The following process work are from various projects and first muslin fittings
Dress Muslin 1- Pattern & Design: Visnaw (2021)
Mini Collection Inspiration Board- Visnaw (2020)
Coordinating Set Muslin- Pattern & Design: Visnaw (2021)
Dress (Back) Pattern & Design: Visnaw (2021)
Dress 2 Muslin- Pattern & Design: Visnaw (2021)
Hand Beaded Sugared Plum (2021)- Design & Beaded: Allison Visnaw
Fitting Sugar Plum Soloist Costume- Dancer: Melayna Hughes, Photography: Kevict Yen, Costume Design (Left): Allison Visnaw
Finished Work
Collection Final Line Up (Part 1) (2021)- Designs: Allison Visnaw
Collection Final Line Up (Part 2) (2021)- Designs: Allison Visnaw
Mini Ballet Collection Line Up-Design: Visnaw (2020)
Fully Lined Mixed Fiber Tweed Coat- Pattern & Photo: Visnaw (2021)
100% Wool Fully Lined Mens Tailored Jacket- Photo: Visnaw (2021)
Visnaw (2021)
Underwire Bra- Pattern: Bramakers Supply Photo: Visnaw (2021)
Visnaw (2021)
BASV's Sugar Plum Soloist Costume (2021)- Dancer: Melayna Hughes, Photography: Kevict Yen, Costume: Allison Visnaw
BASV's Sugar Plum Soloist Costume (2021)- Dancer: Photo & Costume: Allison Visnaw
The History of Cage Crinoline
The dictionary describes crinoline as a stiffened or hooped petticoat worn to make a long skirt stand out (Lexico, 2020). The crinoline, also commonly known as the Cage Crinoline, has been discovered to date back as early as the 1850s. Prior to the invention of the crinoline, petticoats, lightweight underskirts, were worn to create volume for a dress. Around the 1840s, many layers of petticoats were often being used to create desired shapes in women's wardrobe. Petticoats varied in weight depending on season but typically were skirts designed to be layered, sometimes layering up to 20 petticoats at a time, under a decorated skirt or dress. For warmth some petticoats were stuffed with horsehair and for structure were often starched to stick out and hold a shape. Petticoats were typically made of undyed or white cloth with very little details, sometimes embroidery or fabric manipulations were used on the hems of the petticoats. Despite the few details on the petticoats, the main purpose of the garment was to be unseen and to be functional not decorative. It was never acceptable to have a petticoat seen in public. Modesty was a priority at this point in history and would continue to be for many years after. Petticoats became so heavy with the many layers needed to create the desired ‘Bell’ shape of the time that Cage Crinoline quickly became a popular alternative.(Thomson's Empress: W.S. & E.H. Thomson, 2017)
The popularity of the caged crinoline started to grow during the industrial revolution. The Cage crinoline could be referred to as a skeleton petticoat, this is because the boning of the crinoline often resembled a ribcage and was to replicate the shape of the many layers of petticoats. The crinolines were made up of various materials depending on where and when the crinoline was produced. Materials like spring steel and linen were very popular in the production along with woven wool, cotton and brass. The cage crinolines that were produced using spring steel, were easily mass produced in Sheffield, England, due to their increased production of steel compared to other cities of the time. The Victoria and Albert museum website states that “In Sheffield, manufacturers produced enough crinoline wire each week to make over half a million crinolines”. (Thomson's Empress: W.S. & E.H. Thomson, 2017) Because of the increased amount of spring steel being produced, caged crinolines were relatively cheap and readily available in England at the time. The ease of production, and the high availability of the caged crinoline made this style of clothing very popular among those in England during the industrial revolution.
Queen Victoria was among those who popularized the look. Queen Victoria was seen by the fashion press of the time as someone who would influence fashion, as she was the new young queen of England. She changed the style of the time from large imbecile sleeves and poke bonnets to low drooping shoulders, the neckline style was typically decorated and called berthas, and the caged crinoline. (Victoria & Albert Museum, 2013) Before the use of cages, many women would have their maids inflate their dresses in order to conform to this new fashion trend, however the use of the steel cage made attaining this look far easier. While cages made it easy to look good at the time, the rings of the cages would get caught on things or just generally get in the way. In time, crinolines would become reserved for large balls or celebration of those who were higher up in society. The caged crinoline fell out of fashion due to Empress Eugénie of France. The wife of Napoleon III disliked the cage crinoline even though it was popular among the people of the times. She stopped wearing the crinoline out to events, which was unheard of at the time, and eventually everyone followed suit. (Courteaux, n.d.) The Empress began to follow trends of Charles Fredrick Worth, the first known designer to have a live fashion show and man to be internationally recognized for fashion. (Brittanica, n.d.)
Works Cited
COURTEAUX, O. (n.d.). Charles Frederick Worth, the Empress Eugénie and the invention of Haute-Couture. Retrieved from https://www.napoleon.org/en/history-of-the-two-empires/articles/charles-frederick-worth-the-empress-eugenie-and-the-invention-of-haute-couture/
Crinoline: Definition of Crinoline by Lexico. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/crinoline
Thomson's Empress: W.S. & E.H. Thomson. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O58913/thomsons-empress-cage-crinoline-ws-eh-thomson/
Victoria, & Museum, A. (2013, April 25). Restrictive Flamboyance and the Crinoline Craze: 1830-1860. Retrieved from http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/c/corsets-and-crinolines-in-victorian-fashion/
Britannica. (n.d.). Charles Frederick Worth. Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved January 15, 2022, from https://www.britannica.com/biography/Charles-Frederick-Worth
Citations
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Moschino. (2021). The fashion search engine. Tagwalk. Retrieved January 14, 2022, from https://www.tag-walk.com/en/collection/woman/moschino/spring-summer-2022
Strattford. (n.d.). The cecchetti method. Jenni Stafford Ballet Academy. Retrieved January 14, 2022, from https://staffordballet.co.uk/?page_id=976
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Emmanuela Emmanuel Community Member • Anita Hummelshøj Community Member • points posts comments upvotes, hatim soulaim hatim soulaim Community Member • points posts comments upvotes, Gilda Gilda Community Member • points posts comments upvotes, & Ben Smith Ben Smith Community Member • points posts comments upvotes (1969, January 1). Turns out, caterpillars have tiny Little feet, and they're so Cute it's Underrated (30 Pics). Bored Panda. Retrieved September 18, 2021, from https://www.boredpanda.com/caterpillar-feet/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic.
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